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  • 148. The middle of the middle

    148. The middle of the middle

    There’s a particular kind of humility that comes from being assigned seat 28E. The middle. The mathematical centre of other people’s discomfort, for thirteen hours, from Los Angeles to Aotearoa. To my right: a woman whose body had simply outgrown the architecture around it (and the bones buried within it). Her flesh pressed warmly against…

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  • 52. Does my bum look big on this?

    Today we did what you do in Sri Lanka.   We went to an elephant orphanage, we rode on the back of one through the jungle and down a river bed, and we dodged the men hawking t shirts with an elephant’s bum on the front.   Does someone actually buy  these  tshirt? I guess…

    Read more: 52. Does my bum look big on this?
  • 51. This morning’s other view.

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  • 50. Sleep is overrated.

    We leave for Yala National Park in a few hours, and we arrived in the dark last night (thanks to the slow  slow train). I don’t want to miss a minute of this. The view from our room, 6am, 98 Acres Hotel, Ella.

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  • 49. Lesson on patience.

    Today we mostly learned about patience; a good buddhist learning this one. We had spent the evening at Nuwara Eliya at a larged rumpled dusty hotel that smelled of wood polish and disinfectant called St Andrews. We are in the heart of tea plantation country and the evidence of British settlement is everywhere. It’s odd,…

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  • 48. Mr Cody and Bill.

    I’ve been a woman who has travelled alone for many years. I’ve learned to enlist concierges on check in to make sure I get good service. (Funny how so many hotels think women are capable of doing so many more things for themselves than men can). I’ve learned to deflect “Where your husband?” with a…

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  • 47. It’s the humans he loves the most.

    We had an amazing day today, my boy and I. We really are doing some proper travelling, albeit a lot better funded than the ten dollars a day variety I cut my teeth on with his dad all those years ago. It’s dusty, it’s dirty, it’s as hot as hell, and  we’re spending many hours…

    Read more: 47. It’s the humans he loves the most.