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  • 138. A blessing I never saw coming

    I walked in from a quiet side street into the modest Vat That Luang temple today thinking I was just going to watch a ceremony. But in a glorious twist of fate, I was the only one that showed so the ceremony was for me. It was a Baci Blessing – a Lao ritual to…

    Read more: 138. A blessing I never saw coming
  • 137. 中国,请解释。 (China. Please explain.)

     This morning at the Vang Vieng train station, I accidentally became China-famous. A man scanned a sea of empty seats and chose the one directly beside me. Moments later his entire tour group assembled opposite us, giggling like we were about to film a talk show, and very politely asked if they could take photos……

    Read more: 137. 中国,请解释。 (China. Please explain.)
  • 136. Listening to the music instead of the noise.

    Someone on Insta chat asked me the other day if I was having any Laos revelations yet. Like it was only a matter of time. There’s this persistent idea that a mid-life woman travelling alone must be either in crisis or on some kind of spiritual quest.As though the minute we cross a border we’re legally required…

    Read more: 136. Listening to the music instead of the noise.
  • 135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.

     Today’s dispatch from Laos comes to you live from a series of signs that briefly convinced my amygdala I was in grave danger until it turned out I am absolutely fine. First up: Food is strictly prohibited in this area.Fair. Reasonable. We don’t have to eat everywhere do we?But I still felt strangely scolded, like…

    Read more: 135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.
  • 134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truth

    There’s a reason I don’t stick to the beaten track: it has fewer discoveries. Which is how I found myself, on my first day in this small town on the Nam Song River, standing outside the Pull Mind café covered in dust in 30-degree heat, having a moment. What an inspired name. Because from where I’m standing…

    Read more: 134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truth
  • 133. A Singapore birthday: sweaty, scenic and surprisingly content

    Waking up on a non-significant birthday, alone in Singapore on a muggy early morning, was more than fine by me. It was a day of possibilities in a life that remains studded with them. And I think that’s about the best outcome I can ever ask for, whatever number I’m quietly ticking over. Perplexity and…

    Read more: 133. A Singapore birthday: sweaty, scenic and surprisingly content