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Read more: 149. The Samoan smile that lands nowhere149. The Samoan smile that lands nowhere
I have travelled a lot, mostly alone. This means I have become fluent in the particular language of solo navigation; there is always a second and sometimes third question so I don’t get stuck where the sun don’t shine, with no get out of jail card up my sleeve. This trip is different. This trip…
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138. A blessing I never saw coming
Read more: 138. A blessing I never saw comingI walked in from a quiet side street into the modest Vat That Luang temple today thinking I was just going to watch a ceremony. But in a glorious twist of fate, I was the only one that showed so the ceremony was for me. It was a Baci Blessing – a Lao ritual to…
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137. 中国,请解释。 (China. Please explain.)
Read more: 137. 中国,请解释。 (China. Please explain.)This morning at the Vang Vieng train station, I accidentally became China-famous. A man scanned a sea of empty seats and chose the one directly beside me. Moments later his entire tour group assembled opposite us, giggling like we were about to film a talk show, and very politely asked if they could take photos……
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135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.
Read more: 135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.Today’s dispatch from Laos comes to you live from a series of signs that briefly convinced my amygdala I was in grave danger until it turned out I am absolutely fine. First up: Food is strictly prohibited in this area.Fair. Reasonable. We don’t have to eat everywhere do we?But I still felt strangely scolded, like…
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134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truth
Read more: 134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truthThere’s a reason I don’t stick to the beaten track: it has fewer discoveries. Which is how I found myself, on my first day in this small town on the Nam Song River, standing outside the Pull Mind café covered in dust in 30-degree heat, having a moment. What an inspired name. Because from where I’m standing…
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133. A Singapore birthday: sweaty, scenic and surprisingly content
Read more: 133. A Singapore birthday: sweaty, scenic and surprisingly contentWaking up on a non-significant birthday, alone in Singapore on a muggy early morning, was more than fine by me. It was a day of possibilities in a life that remains studded with them. And I think that’s about the best outcome I can ever ask for, whatever number I’m quietly ticking over. Perplexity and…









