Secret Royalty On Tour

Travelling to the best of me, all over the world.

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  • 139. The spirits we forget to honour

    The more time I spend in Laos, the more I realise how many worlds can sit quietly on top of each other. Here, animism – Satsana Phi, the spirit religion – threads itself through everyday life. Even in a country that is mostly Buddhist, the belief in phi (spirits who inhabit rivers, mountains, rice fields, trees, families, clans,…

    Read more: 139. The spirits we forget to honour

  • 138. A blessing I never saw coming

    I walked in from a quiet side street into the modest Vat That Luang temple today thinking I was just going to watch a ceremony. But in a glorious twist of fate, I was the only one that showed so the ceremony was for me. It was a Baci Blessing – a Lao ritual to…

    Read more: 138. A blessing I never saw coming

  • 137. 中国，请解释。 (China. Please explain.)

     This morning at the Vang Vieng train station, I accidentally became China-famous. A man scanned a sea of empty seats and chose the one directly beside me. Moments later his entire tour group assembled opposite us, giggling like we were about to film a talk show, and very politely asked if they could take photos……

    Read more: 137. 中国，请解释。 (China. Please explain.)

  • 136. Listening to the music instead of the noise.

    Someone on Insta chat asked me the other day if I was having any Laos revelations yet. Like it was only a matter of time. There’s this persistent idea that a mid-life woman travelling alone must be either in crisis or on some kind of spiritual quest.As though the minute we cross a border we’re legally required…

    Read more: 136. Listening to the music instead of the noise.

  • 135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.

     Today’s dispatch from Laos comes to you live from a series of signs that briefly convinced my amygdala I was in grave danger until it turned out I am absolutely fine. First up: Food is strictly prohibited in this area.Fair. Reasonable. We don’t have to eat everywhere do we?But I still felt strangely scolded, like…

    Read more: 135. Looking for a sign? Have I got the place for you.

  • 134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truth

    There’s a reason I don’t stick to the beaten track: it has fewer discoveries. Which is how I found myself, on my first day in this small town on the Nam Song River, standing outside the Pull Mind café covered in dust in 30-degree heat, having a moment. What an inspired name. Because from where I’m standing…

    Read more: 134. Vang Vieng: A little café with a big truth

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Argentina. Australia. Bali. China. Colombia. France. Hong Kong. Laos. London to Meet the Princess. New Zealand. Sri Lanka. Singapore. Tahiti. The Seven Day Fast. United Kingdom. USA.